May 4, 2018 We were so innocent and naive Friday morning in Key West as we sipped our Cuban coffee (delicious) and walked our bikes down to the buoy marking the southernmost point of the U.S. Sally snapped a few photos and we were off — after so many months of planning this trip. The weather was pretty at 9 am: summery and bright. Once we left the busy streets of Key West the sights were fun: teal green sea, iguanas big and small scurrying away from us, visits of upcoming keys off in the distance. We had some separated bike paths in the morning but many of the bike/pedestrian bridges are closed due to hurricane damage from last fall. At mile 25, halfway through our day’s ride, we stopped for a little lunch and more delicious Cuban coffee at Island Coffee inSummerland Key. I asked the shopkeepers for intelligence about the infamous 7-Mile Bridge that I knew was ahead of us. They gave ample warning but you always take it with a grain of salt from non-cyclists and non-runners. Lordy. I never want to see that bridge again! It was mile 40 to 47 on Route 1 and we were riding dead into the easterly headwind blowing 18 to 22 mph. The protected bridge for bikes and pedestrians is closed with major storm dam age so there we were riding the shoulder, a nonstop stream of cars and trucks loudly rushing by us. Have I mentioned that in the last 20 years, really since having kids, I’ve developed a strong discomfort with high bridges and edges of all sorts?? So Dee rode ahead, helpfully blocking out some of my view, and we ride slowly for a good hour on a smallish shoulder. We averaged 6 mph — as Dee said, that’s about our running pace these days. I kept my head down and sang to myself the old folk song, “inch by inch, row by row, I’m going to make this garden grow” — on repeat because that’s all I could remember. At mile 43 you climb a little bump up on the bridge — fun! It devastated Dee that we couldn’t even coast down the other side because the wind was too strong. I realized by then that I was going to make it without having to walk. I offered to switch places with Dee to block some of the wind for her. But I was feeling stranger and stranger. Hot, dehydrated, exhausted from not being able to change position for fear of swerving into a truck. I began to see a chained link fence that wasn’t there above the jersey barriers, as if I could lean against it. With maybe a be a mile to go on the bridge (it was like a mirage, we never seemed to make progress) I finally had to stop. Dee pulled up behind me and we were both shaking. Distraught, exhausted, we took some swings of water, then — Bob will hate this part — we crouched and peed against the Jersey barrier, while the trucks roared by. About a a mile after we hit solid ground in Marathon, we pulled off to a roadside open air bar offering thatched-roof shade. We slumped ourselves onto two bar stools and ordered ice cold cokes: heaven. A couple beside us, celebrating their first anniversary, asked us a bit about what we were doing (“riding to Canada!) and then asked to take our photo. “You’re the most interesting people we have met all week,” the woman told us. Fifteen minutes later (after free Cokes, the bartender said they were on him) we were revived enough to make it a few miles to our motel. It made me think of our iPhones, both of which are losing battery power too quickly, but also recharge quickly. I was definitely I in low-power mode but one coke took me back to about 69 percent in 15 minutes. I havent mentioned that I got a flat tire a few miles before that scary bridge. I haven’t had a flat on my bike for maybe 20 years, but there was plenty of debris on the road shoulders. Dee kept me calm and helped me change it pretty efficiently in the shade of a gas station that was working to reopen after storm damage. Day two offers more bridges as we make our way out of the Keys. It’s ok, I’ll keep my head down. “Inch by inch...” —Lisa Dee on the road in the morning, before the headwind and bridges got hairy. Our lunch stop. Best iced coffee ever.
41 Comments
Barbara Amodio
5/5/2018 06:55:12 pm
One pedal stroke at a time. You’ve got this.
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Poyee Oster
5/5/2018 07:28:43 pm
What an adventure at just day one!!! It took my breath away just reading it!!! Rooting for you guys!!! Poyee
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Jimmy Meyer
5/5/2018 07:32:57 pm
I get nervous even riding in a car on that bridge! But yea. you made it. Hope the winds calm some.
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Stacy
5/5/2018 07:55:36 pm
Congratulations on day one girls! Here’s to a smoother second day with many more beautiful views…
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Beverly Duncan
5/5/2018 07:58:54 pm
Oh my! 2019 here we come!!
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Roxanne
5/6/2018 01:51:57 am
Flat =‘s 😬 The ride sounds wonderful. I really enjoyed the article ! Sending you good vibes & ☘️.
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Lisa Berdan
5/6/2018 04:07:39 am
sending all good wishes to you 2- you are both the most interesting people I will be following this summer!
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Julie Knaack
5/6/2018 04:25:27 am
Hard to imagine what those 7 miles would be like but I am so thankful you made it across without incident. I fully expect to see a story about you two on the news. Not sure yet if it will be for the Peeing in public part or your cycling goal.
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Lisa
5/6/2018 05:55:38 pm
?? keepin it real!
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Kathy W
5/6/2018 04:33:11 am
Having a fear of bridge crossings myself, reading
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Lisa Hostetler
5/6/2018 05:06:20 am
Well, that was harrowing. Ride on! Safely!
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Paula Bodah
5/6/2018 05:37:56 am
Facing challenges head on...the definition of courage!
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Thea
5/6/2018 05:48:53 am
Loved that bridge in a car. Bike point of view changes everything. Love your writing!
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Charlie Finnegan
5/6/2018 06:33:50 am
Tough break with the closure of bike lane on that massive bridge! 😟. That hopefully will be the toughest part of the journey. 🚴🏿♂️ I’m interested in what the actual bike route looks like. I know it’s a patchwork of different categories of cycling paths/lanes. It must be tempting in Keys to stop at a beach & swim in the hot part of the day & then continue in the late afternoon. 🧘🏼♂️🧘🏼♂️
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Lisa
5/6/2018 05:54:44 pm
You can go to map.greenway.org and check out different stretches. I’ll be trying to take photos.
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Scott
5/6/2018 06:40:16 am
Enjoy the trip . Loving the photos !
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Betty Bourret
5/6/2018 08:01:01 am
Good. You got that over with...the worst day you'l have on the entire ride. You are brave and determined. Ride on.
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Linda Ehrlich
5/6/2018 08:43:17 am
You two are amazing. See you in Durham!
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5/6/2018 08:53:02 am
I love that you wrote that you stopped to pee! I've worried about that as I think about my upcoming trip!
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Lisa
5/6/2018 05:52:23 pm
? I’m really good at peeing anywhere, years of running have taught me well. But this was a first, on a bridge facing* the trucks roaring by. And not caring one bit!
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Linda Bostwick
5/6/2018 09:02:13 am
Good to have day one under your belt!
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Rob Dexter
5/6/2018 09:24:45 am
Sorry for you that you are riding into a head wind (going North);, good for us that in 2 years we will be riding with a tail wind (going South). I note that you both have sandals- do they have bike clips? Love your writing- keep going one pedal stroke at a time!
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Lisa
5/6/2018 05:50:47 pm
So it’s all about you and YOUR ride, eh Rob? We had tailwinds today and loved them, Homestead to Boca Raton.
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Rob Dexter
5/6/2018 07:19:32 pm
2 years from now, you can enjoy going with the wind (South!) on the Week-a-year Tour 5/6/2018 10:25:06 am
That bridge isn't any fun in a car, let alone on a bike with a headwind! So glad you made it safely.
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Mary Beth Powell
5/6/2018 10:28:34 am
Holy cow! Let’s hope you don’t have another day like that! Keep on keeping on, you two!
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Debbie
5/6/2018 11:13:45 am
You got one of the hardest parts over first and you did it!!! Wishing you perfect temps and easy riding now!
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Ah, the 7-Mile Bridge. Hell! I am so glad you made it across safely (albeit slowly); and I feel your pain. Maybe it helps you to know that the scariest part of the entire trip (as far as I can tell, considering I took the coastal spine) is behind you. When Murf and I got hit by a thunderstorm and wind gushes of 40+ mph half-way across that dang bridge, I initially thought my life was over. Not even kidding. I feared for my life, and I *never* scare. At least I would have died cycling, which isn't all that bad, all things considered. ;-)
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Lisa
5/6/2018 05:46:17 pm
Oh my god, Stefanie, that must have been hell! I remember you had trouble but didn’t realize it was THAT bridge! Wow. You are a tough tough cookie!
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Brian Patrick Mulligan
5/6/2018 03:51:38 pm
Pee on Jersey barriers whenever you can! No need to do that on a seat you'll be on for___ hours!
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Lisa
5/6/2018 05:44:29 pm
??thanks Brian!
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Andy McClurg
5/6/2018 05:15:25 pm
Wow, tough nuts about the bridge, but honest to god, you both look just like you did in 1985, so that’s a plus, right?
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Lisa
5/6/2018 05:43:57 pm
Totally. It’s all about how we look. An older man walking his dog this morning just outside Miami turned to watch us and called out, “Looking strong!” We think he *got* our pannier bags and all.
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Mary Loftus
5/6/2018 05:29:53 pm
I just read this out loud to Amos and Juno, as if it were a bedtime story to my kids. Which, I guess, this week, it is. They really seemed like they were paying attention!
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Lisa
5/6/2018 05:41:54 pm
Ohhhh! Of course they understood! They were like, why hasn’t she even texted us??
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Brigitte
5/6/2018 06:08:47 pm
Stay strong my friends!! You are my idol!!
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Lisa
5/6/2018 06:36:30 pm
Oh now stop. I’ll have lots of stories for you. And feeling strong, no knee pain! ?
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Patrice
5/6/2018 06:17:38 pm
I’m am picturing all this and getting tense just reading. I can’t wait until you’re on some of the paths.
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Tracy Patterson
5/7/2018 02:32:31 am
I love reading about your trip. I have a similar fear of big bridges as what you described, Lisa. I am so impressed with your riding over this one and how you got through singing that song to yourself. Keep the stories and photos coming. You two are amazing!
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Daniel
5/7/2018 06:16:17 am
You two are my heroes! Don't let scary bridges get you down! You got this!
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